the changing face of berlin

The Changing Face of Berlin

When I first visited Berlin in 2000, the city still felt like it was coming to terms with its divided past. At that time, not many people spoke English, and there seemed to be little patience for those who couldn’t speak German. The friendliness was also lacking, though this might have been due to the fact that it was the middle of winter – and winters in Berlin are no laughing matter!

After a bad experience in what was once East Berlin, I did not return for many years. However, I revisited Berlin in the summer of 2023 and was so impressed that I returned again this year. The city has transformed into a vibrant, welcoming, and tourist-friendly destination. Most hotel reception staff speak English, the transport system features English signage, and the drivers announce the stations in English as well. If you want to practise your German, there are still many opportunities to do so, but if you are not confident in your German, you will still be able to find your way around the city.


Urban Development and Architecture

Berlin's skyline has transformed significantly over the past two decades. The cityscape is now a mix of historic buildings, modern skyscrapers, and innovative architectural designs. Landmarks like the Berlin Hauptbahnhof (central train station), the Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz, and the rebuilt Berliner Schloss (Berlin Palace) showcase the city's commitment to blending history with modernity.

Unified City: Left: Wilmina Hotel, Berlin (Former West Berlin) Right: Sly Hotel Berlin (Former East Berlin)

Cultural Scene

Berlin has become a global cultural hub, renowned for its diverse arts scene. The city hosts numerous festivals, such as the Berlin International Film Festival (Berlinale), Berlin Art Week, and the Carnival of Cultures. The transformation of industrial spaces into cultural venues, like the Kulturbrauerei and the Berlinische Galerie, highlights Berlin’s creative spirit.

Green Spaces and Sustainability

Berlin has made significant strides in becoming a greener city. The expansion of parks and green spaces, such as the Tempelhofer Feld (a former airport turned public park), provides residents and visitors with ample recreational opportunities. Additionally, Berlin’s emphasis on sustainability can be seen in its extensive bike lanes, eco-friendly initiatives, and numerous organic markets.

Berlin a green city.

Technology and Start-Up Scene

Berlin has emerged as a leading centre for technology and innovation. The city’s start-up scene is thriving, with numerous tech companies and co-working spaces springing up, particularly in areas like Mitte and Kreuzberg. Berlin’s reputation as the "Silicon Allee" of Europe is attracting young entrepreneurs and tech professionals from around the globe.

Historical Reflection and Memorials

Berlin continues to reflect on its complex history through numerous memorials and museums. The Holocaust Memorial, the Berlin Wall Memorial, and the Topography of Terror are just a few sites that provide deep insights into the city’s past. These memorials serve as important reminders and educational sites, fostering a collective memory and understanding.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.

Top Photo: Plaque commemorating the Berlin Wall; Bottom: Behind the wall a surveillance State.

Left: Outside the Stasi Museum; Right: A plaque remembering those escaped from the communist regime to the West and where they were housed (in Charlottenburg).

Left: Portion of the Wall; Right: A car from DDR (inside the DDR Museum)

Left: What's left of Berlin Wall; Right: The tram tracks in former East Berlin. 

Economic Growth and Investment

The economic landscape of Berlin has changed dramatically. The city has seen substantial investment in infrastructure, housing, and business development. This growth has led to an increase in job opportunities and has made Berlin a more attractive place for both domestic and international investments.

Moving On

Berlin has dusted itself off, and there is a palpable sense of progress. After enduring the ravages of World War II and the Cold War, Berlin is finally feeling whole again. The transport system, in particular, is outstanding. For just €9, you can travel all over Berlin for 24 hours, with tickets valid on trams (found only in eastern Berlin), buses, underground, and overground trains. The service is fantastic, with frequent transport options. Experiencing this excellent service, I wondered if London could partner with Berlin to improve its own transport system.

Last year, I stayed in Charlottenburg, which is akin to London’s Primrose Hill. It is trendy, with numerous cafés and restaurants. I particularly enjoyed the Georgian, Vietnamese, and Indian cuisines. The Indian food at Mr. Chaiwalla in Charlottenburg was quite authentic, and just thinking about it makes my mouth water.

Berlin also boasts many museums to satisfy a curious mind. From the world-renowned Pergamon Museum to the thought-provoking Berlin Wall Memorial, the city's cultural and historical offerings provide a rich tapestry of experiences for any visitor. Whether you're interested in art, history, or contemporary culture, Berlin has something to offer. I highly recommend a visit.